Types of removers: Differences and modes of action
REMOVERS for removing permanent makeup, microblading, and tattoos without the use of lasers are essentially suspensions capable of drawing pigments embedded in the skin out of the tissue layers and across the skin’s surface. Depending on their active ingredients, removers are classified as acid-based, salt-based, or alkali-based. Below, I explain what these types of removers consist of and how they work.
penetrate the skin, bind to the molecules of stabilized pigments, break the bond between them and skin cells, and facilitate their removal from the skin layers when used in conjunction with a tattoo/PU machine or manual pen.
Manufacturers often refer to the acids contained in these products as AHAs. These may include the following acids: lactic acid, glycolic acid, hydroxyacetic acid, hydroxy succinic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
To enhance their effectiveness, acid-based removers often contain components such as resorcinol, salicylic acid, and barium sulfide.
Acids are essentially coagulating substances. Therefore, a fairly thick scab (crust) often forms on the treated skin area after the procedure. In 2011, the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment advised against using lactic acid for tattoo removal, as the treatment is associated with health risks.
The key factor here is the concentration of the salts in the solution. If the salt comes into contact with the wound surface in the form of a 0.9% solution (the same concentration as in blood plasma, which is why this solution is called a physiological solution), it will not cause any discomfort or adverse effects on the skin. A similar solution is also used to clean wounds in conventional medicine. However, to remove pigments from the skin, this solution would be too weak and have virtually no effect.
A solution with a higher salt content (hypertonic solution, 3–5–10%) is wonderfully suited for external use to drain pus and has an antiseptic effect. However, it is equally useless for removing pigments.
Therefore, a relatively high salt concentration is required to have an effect on the pigments in the skin. When highly concentrated salt solutions come into contact with sore areas of skin, they cause dehydration (salts draw water out of skin cells) and thus lead to partial cell breakdown. This is precisely why the risk of scarring is quite high when using salt-based removers.
Removers based on sodium, potassium, or calcium hydroxides are used to remove pigments of any complexity. While acids act as coagulants, alkalis have a diluting effect.
When using alkaline removers, the likelihood of scarring and inflammation only arises if the client fails to follow the mandatory aftercare instructions or if the practitioner acts in a grossly unprofessional manner.
Alkaline remover solutions often contain CaO (quicklime). Upon contact with liquid or water, the quicklime transitions to a slaked state, accompanied by the release of heat. This is precisely why contact with water is prohibited for the next 3 days following treatment with alkaline removers.
Additionally, the treated skin surface must be lightly coated with specially formulated oil-based care products.
Like all cosmetic products, removers have advantages and disadvantages that should be taken into account when selecting the appropriate product.
- Acid-based formulations often cause allergic reactions;
- acid-based removers can cause the treated area to weep, which may lead to infection and inflammation;
- alkaline formulations often dry out the skin layers, therefore the use of special care products after treatment is mandatory;
- salt- and acid-based remover solutions cause protein breakdown and abrupt tissue dehydration, which often leads to the disintegration of coagulated tissue areas. Result: tissue atrophy (sunken skin areas).
- Alkali remover solutions break down proteins, forming alkaline proteins in the process. Their effect unfolds more slowly than that of salts and acids; they penetrate deeper into the skin. Therefore, superficial treatment with alkaline removers is more effective and less traumatic.
- If used improperly, all three types of remover solutions can cause chemical burns, scarring, and inflammation. Removal treatments belong only in the professional hands of well-trained colleagues!
